Description

Bath natives know all about the Beckford Group at this point. Responsible for a clutch of excellent gastropubs across the south west, they’ve also put a name to two of Bath’s busier restaurants - The Beckford Bottle Shop, and Beckford Canteen - a younger, more restauranty sibling to the cave a manger Bottle Shop.

First impressions are promising - Beckford Canteen sits on one of Bath’s many quaint, cobbled mews, taking up residence in an old Georgian greenhouse. It’s no garden variety greenhouse mind you - this one has a big vaulted ceiling that provides a sense of airy calm, whilst big windows fill the space with natural light and provide ample people-watching opportunity.

The menu is just as attractive as the dining room. Right at the top of the bill, a set of crumpets (one rarebit with pickled onion and one with beef tongue) demand to be ordered. The rarebit crumpet is especially good, with angry blackened spots contrasting the sweet and sour pickle. We immediately order a second.

There’s plenty more in the way of seasonal delights too. Beckford Canteen has confidence in the quality of its cooking, and rarely feels the need to mess around with embellishments. There’s a lovely plate of smoked eel with egg yolk and crispy leek, well-made ricotta agnolotti in a slick of pumpkin puree, and a rich rust-brown fish stew that is bursting with fishy flavour. The team does a fantastic job with accompanying wines as well, and we can confirm they mix an excellent chilled Negroni in a frosty glass.

With just enough room for a pud, we managed to squeeze in a bit of cherry sorbet and a smart little puck of chocolate delice with Jerusalem artichoke malt. Throw in a squad of lovely staff and it’s clear that Beckford Group know how to make a good restaurant - Beckford Canteen is another smash hit in a city that is fast becoming one of our favourite foodie destinations.

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